What is your idea of the perfect Greek island? Let me tell you about mine – it has to have a picture-perfect harbour and a good beach and be the kind of place where I’ll feel as if I’ve stepped back in time. I want it to have an old-fashioned feel, where life goes on at a slow pace and the pleasures are simple and unsophisticated. I want to eat good, local food at family-run tavernas and I don’t want to be surrounded by lots of other tourists even in the summer months. Is it too much to ask? I’ll let you into a secret – I think I’ve found the perfect Greek island and this Folegandros guide tells you all you need to know.
This summer we stayed on the tiny island of Folegandros in the Cyclades, the group of islands in the Aegean Sea of which the most well known include Santorini and Mykonos. These are the beautiful islands you see in so many stunning Greek photos – whitewashed, cuboid houses on hillsides and domed blue and white churches – but they can also be some of the most popular, with thousands of tourists descending on them every summer.
But Folegandros is different. Only a 40-minute journey by high speed ferry from the crowds on Santorini and you feel as if you’re in another world. You arrive by night at the tiny harbour and there are only a few lights shining out from the hillside. The road from the harbour snakes up the mountain to Chora, one of the prettiest towns in the Cyclades. Its setting could hardly be more dramatic: perched on the rocks over 200 metres above sea level, so there are incredible views over the Aegean Sea from the main square. The blues of the sky and the sea bleed into each other in a heavenly vision of indigos, cobalt blues and aquamarine – and the sunsets are spectacular.
Despite being the main town of the island there’s no traffic so it’s a delight to wander around the collection of squares that lead to each other via passageways and narrow paths. Old men play backgammon in the shade and small children run around playing hide and seek and making friends with the local cats. The whitewashed buildings are draped with bougainvillea and the tavernas have tables set up in every square. Any Folegandros guide must include details of the wonderful restaurants on the island.
You could eat in a different one every day of the week and still not visit them all but they’ll all have delicious local food – fresh octopus, Greek Salad with the wonderful local goat’s cheese, stuffed tomatoes and vine leaves, matsata, handmade pasta with rabbit sauce, cheese and spinach pies and fresh fish. You’ll wash it down with a carafe of the local white or rosé wine and want for nothing else.
The islanders love singing and dancing so if you’re lucky you’ll catch one of the regular public parties on the main square. Musicians will set up with their lutes and violins and everyone will get up to dance.
Folegandros has been inhabited for at least 3,000 years and is believed to be named after its first settler, Prince Folegandros, the son of King Minos of Crete. Any Folegandros guide book will tell you that the Kastro, the walled medieval centre of town, is one of the best preserved in Greece. People have lived in the Kastro for centuries and little has changed since the islanders built their houses behind the walls for protection against invaders. Walk down its tiny streets and through the covered passageways and you’ll find local women sitting on the steps to chat to each other and washing hung up between the buildings.
Folegandros is only eight miles long. If you hire a car to explore, keep going along the road from Chora and you’ll pass terraces for cultivating crops, lemon trees protected from the winds with stone walls and tiny, isolated churches on distant hills. You may feel compelled to do as we did and stop the car at the side of the road and walk along the track to one of the churches. You’ll pass olive trees, wild thyme and oregano growing on the hillside and be rewarded with great views over the sea when you get there.
You’ll pass few cars if you’re driving. This is an island where goats graze at the side of the road and the farmers still use donkeys to get around and carry their loads. Fresh octopus is hung up to dry outside village tavernas. It’s the sort of place where the local pharmacy sells wine and raki from its own vineyard and where a taverna chalks up ‘young local goat’ on the blackboard as its special of the day.
A Folegandros guide will let you in on the secrets of the island’s beaches. The little harbour, Karavostasis, is one of the quietest seaside villages in the Cyclades. On the little jetty you can watch fishermen untangling their nets and people cleaning freshly caught fish. The pebbly beach is shaded by tamarisk trees and the water calm enough for toddlers to play safely. There’s a smattering of white cube houses and beach side tavernas so laid back you’ll feel like lingering all afternoon. Walk around the headland and you’ll find more beaches, one of which my boys, with much hilarity, named ‘The Naked Ladies’ Beach’.
You won’t find sun loungers or organised water sports on any of the beaches. Most hotels will provide guests with beach towels and umbrellas though. It’s agreeably warm in the summer – but not too hot, making it ideal for families. The meltemia winds blow in July and August so the summers never get as blisteringly hot as some other parts of Greece.
One of our favourite beaches was the sandy beach at Angali on the south side of the island. It’s easy to get to from Chora – you’ll find the bus times scribbled down on a blackboard. Angali is even smaller than Karavostasis – just a few boats and a couple of great tavernas so friendly that if you visit a second time you’ll be welcomed back like old friends.
The best way to see more of Folegandros is to take one of the boat trips that go all around the island, stopping off at idyllic bays for swimming and snorkelling off the back of the boat. You’ll see the Chrysophilia cave where the local people used to hide from pirates – its walls are covered with graffiti dating from the 4th century BC.
Every Folegandros guide will tell you that a boat trip is the easiest way to get to some of the more inaccessible beaches like Katergo, one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. This small sand and pebbly beach is towered over by granite rocks, with more rocks scattered in the sea – more than enough to use as a launch pad into the water or for aspiring mermaids to perch on. The best thing about it though is the sea – a translucent aquamarine perfect for swimming in.
There are churches everywhere on Folegandros. The most prominent is the Church of Panaghia (the Virgin Mary) in Chora. It was built in the early 1800s on the site of an ancient temple to Artemis and Apollo. You can see the distinctive white drystone walls lining the zigzag path leading up to the church from a long way away. The 15-minute walk up the path is a Folegandros ritual every evening – it’s one of the best spots to watch the sun set on the island. Made even more fun for children if they can ride up to the top on the back of a donkey.
Donkeys, laid-back lunches, boat trips and quiet beaches. That’s my kind of perfect.
We stayed in two hotels in Folegandros, the Polikandia Hotel and Anemomilos Apartments.
For more Greek island inspiration, take a look at Best Greek Islands for Families, Quiet Greek Islands to Escape the Crowds and Beautiful Greek Islands for your Bucket List.
Oh I don’t think you should have shared the secret….Folegandros looks amazing and I have a real hankering for Greece next year… Hmmm…
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It’s a really special place, Ting! Thanks so much for commenting.
Done and done. That is perfection. I knew I liked you. This looks exquisite and perfect and take down your post right now so we keep the secret! Thanks for the beautiful tour. Really really beautiful.
Author
Ditto! Your comments about travel on Instagram recently have been absolutely spot on. I love finding kindred spirits. As for Folegandros, it really is a beautiful place.
Oh my goodness, this is the perfect Greek Island escape. Only 40 minutes from Santorini? So doable even with little children! How did you discover this magical place Clare?
Author
It helps being a tad obsessed with Greece. I’m constantly on the search for those perfect, out-of-the-way places. Heard about another little gem recently…
Beautifully written – so much so I could almost be there! Thank you so much for sharing this secret special place – it truly sounds like heaven. We love Greece, particularly sailing in Greece so have been lucky enough to visit some less touristy islands but Folegandros looks like heaven!
Author
Thanks so much for such lovely comments! I think sailing in Greece must be magical – there are so many wonderful little harbours and you could just anchor off a beautiful bay for a few days.
you changed your site!it’s nice! This is perfect Greek island!:)
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Thanks so much, Tanja! It really is.
Wow, Clare, how dreamy! It does sound and look like the perfect island! I’m going to share this, but sort of don’t want to;) Love how you arrive to the island by night – so magical..
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It’s such a magical way to arrive – and so special when you realise just how undeveloped it really is.
Looks stunning! It’s such a long time since we’ve been to Greece, you’ve really whetted my appetite for a return visit. Everything about this island looks magical.
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I just love Greece, Joy, and this island really was something special.
Folegrandos looks absolutely perfect! So much so that I shared this post with my husband and insisted he read it straight away. I definitely like the idea of escaping the crowds and love that there are so many eateries.
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That’s brilliant! Hope he liked it. I’m always on the look out for quieter places to visit and good food is an essential part of a good holiday for me.
This! This is the Greece I see when I close my eyes and imagine the islands- I’m not sure I thought it really existed any more. I think this has shot right up my bucket list. Before too many people read your post 😉
Author
Yes! It’s my ideal of Greece too. It’s wonderful to know that there are still those special, old-fashioned gems around in the world.
Folegandros does sound like the perfect place. I must go there!
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You won’t regret it, Allison. It’s such a lovely island. Thanks so much for sharing.
Clare this place looks amazing! We were looking at Greece this past summer but couldn’t decide on a place – this looks like it may be the one! Not only are your book reviews always spot on now I have to take notes of all your travel tips. The photos are gorgeous x
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Thanks so much, Natalie! I’m just in love with the Greek islands and always looking for the quiet ones. Folegandros was really special. I’ve got a few other islands I can recommend as well.
Clare, what a wonderful place. I am one of those people who are guilty of dreaming about super touristy Santorini, but it seems like there are so many other off-beat islands which are equally, if not more picturesque and idyllic. Stunning photos! xoxo, nano
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Thank you so much, Nano! Folegandros really is a wonderful place 🙂
I’ve loved seeing your photos of Folegandros on Instagram and it’s wonderful to now read your words about such a beautiful island. It’s picture perfect.
Great to be part of your first #FarawayFiles linky – wishing you every success with it.
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Thank you so much for joining us, Trish. Your blog posts always inspire me. So happy to read you’ve enjoyed finding out about Folegandros.
Dreamy! This is absolutely my kind of place and it’s been far too long since I was last in Greece….10 years! Good luck with your new linky, happy to join in and spread the travel lurve.
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Thanks so much, Phoebe. It’s wonderful to have you with us – I love your posts! Ten years is a long time – definitely time to plan another visit!
This is gorgeous, thanks for sharing. I have been to 10s of the Greek Islands but have never been to Cyclades. I’ve been wanting to go forever but I think you have pushed me even closer now!
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Thanks so much, Smidge. I do really love the Greek islands and the Cyclades certainly have that picture-perfect look. Thank you so much for joining up with us on #FarawayFiles
Everything looks so white and clean! What an amazing place to have a holiday #FarawayFiles
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It really was, Gina. I absolutely recommend it. Thank you so much for joining us in our first ever #FarawayFiles.
My husband has been telling me that we should go to Folegandros next time we’re in Greece but something always comes up that we always have to change the plan. After seeing this, I think we should really push it to go there next time we’re in Greece. It’s gorgeous!
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Your husband is absolutely right! You’re lucky enough to go to Greece more often than most so I’m sure you’ll get to Folegandros one day. Thanks so much for joining us on #Faraway Files, Noemi. Cx
Ahhh! It looks like its from another World. Thank you for sharing! #farawayfiles
Author
You’re very welcome. It is really lovely!
Loved your earlier photo tour of Folegandros so enjoyed reading about your experience on the island. Sounds like the perfect island getaway – beautiful beaches and skies, great food, lovely architecture and history!
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Thanks so much, Ahila. It really was the perfect island getaway – something that’s not always so easy to find nowadays. We’re so happy that we did.
OOoh I’m in love already! That’s my biggest fear is going to Santorini and hating it because of the crowds! #FarawayFiles
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That’s the biggest problem with these lists of the most beautiful, isn’t it – everybody else is there too! I honestly found more beauty in the low-key, old-fashioned style of Folegandros.
We’ve done some of the bigger islands like santorini but this looks beautiful #farawayfiles
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It really is a wonderful place. We did love the fact that it was such a small island.
Author
It really is. For me, it’s the smaller, quieter islands every time!
It really does look like the perfect Greek island. I wonder why/how it’s escaped all the tourists, particularly with it being so close to Santorini? #farawayfiles
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We loved it, Christine. I think it’s escaped a lot of tourists because it doesn’t have the tourist infrastructure that some people feel are essentials – no sunbeds on the beaches, no watersports, night clubs or fancy restaurants. I prefer a more low key kind of place but that’s not everybody’s idea of a perfect holiday. Suits me though!
Wow! That looks like an idea location. A Greek island would be my perfect summer trip, but I also wouldn’t want to be surrounded by crowds.
#farawayfiles
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You’d love Folegandros then, Christine. Thanks so much for joining up with this week’s #FarawayFiles
I always love to find out about island I never knew existed! that looks amaaazing!
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It really is a wonderful place.
What a wonderful place!! I just love all the white and blue that you see in Greece.
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Me too, Angie. That bright blue and white is absolutely divine – particularly in the Cyclades.
Ooh that looks lovely. I must admit, the tentacles freak me out a little, but I love the donkey pics 😉
Author
Thanks Frankie. It really is lovely 🙂
Duly pinned to my wish list board! This is my kind of island! We love the Peloponnese and this looks suitably similar and rustic!
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Thanks so much, Anna. I’m sure you’d love it in Folegandros. I must make it to the Peloponnese some day. Thanks so much for sharing, too 🙂
Everything about this sounds perfect! Greece is full of so many unknown beautiful places I definitely want to explore more.
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Thanks Eppie. There are so many islands to choose from in Greece that it can be hard working out which one to visit. I do prefer the more laid-back islands so Folegandros hit all the right spots for me 🙂
Now this *does* sound utterly amazing – my husband and I keep saying we need to visit Greece…!
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It is amazing, Emma. If you’re into laid-back and relaxed, you’ll love it!
I think you are right! It does look like the perfect Greek island. Everything anyone could want from a holiday. The naked ladies beach sounds intriguing….
Author
I know! My boys thought it was hilarious. Folegandros really did have everything we wanted from a Greek island holiday. I know I don’t usually return to places but I do think we’ll go back one day.
This looks just stunning – what a fabulous secret gem! #farawayfiles
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Thanks so much, Megan. It felt like a really special find, that’s for sure.
Ah – a bit of a trip down memory lane, we visited Folegandros last year and just loved it! My other top tip would be Sifnos – also spectacularly beautiful with amazing hikes and so many untouched areas!
Author
Folegandros is just so wonderful, isn’t it? We were there last summer too. I remember seeing photos on Instagram of Sifnos while we were there and thinking it looked just like my kind of place. We’ll have to visit!
This place looks so photogenic! #FarawayFiles
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It really is so pretty. Thanks so much, Keri.
this is so beautiful than Crowdy Santorini. Would love to visit here
Thank you for sharing this hidden gem
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You’re very welcome. We much preferred beautiful, quiet Folegandros to Santorini.
I love Greece and this looks exactly like my kind of place. You manage to capture it so wonderfully in your beautiful photos 🙂
Definitely getting added to the itinerary next time I head over to the Greek islands!
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Thanks so very much, Kiara. Greece is one of my favourite places in the world and I particularly love the quieter Greek islands. We’re off to discover a couple more this summer. Can’t wait!
I LOVE getting off the beaten track and avoiding crowds. I’ve been to Mykonos and Santorini but I’m going to keep Folegandros in mind for future trips.
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Totally with you there, Erin. I just don’t enjoy a place so much if it’s really crowded. There are so many wonderful Greek islands that are much quieter and lesser known. Folegandros is definitely somewhere really special.
Beautiful! I’d go tomorrow if I could!
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Thanks. It’s such a special place, Lynne. Hope you get to visit it one day.
It certainly looks pretty perfect! The Greek islands don’t disappoint, do they? Those blue skies, azure waters, and white villages are hard to beat. Will be adding Folegandros to my to-see list now!
Author
They never disappoint, you’re so right. They’re so idyllic I find myself longing to be there every summer.
Thank you for sharing! Never knew about this island!
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You’re welcome. It’s definitely one of my favourites.
I love the sea, the sun and rural simple settings, so this is really to my taste. The Greek islands have always seemed too touristy for me. Thank you for drawing my attention to this one! I will look into getting a trip there next year.
Author
There are so many Greek islands to choose from. I can absolutely guarantee that you’ll find loads that aren’t too touristy. We don’t like the tourist crowds either yet we’ve always managed to find some quieter islands that are just heavenly.
Where do you fly to for this island?
Author
We flew into Santorini. There’s a fast 40-minute ferry from there. But you can fly into any airport that has good ferry links to Folegandros. Athens for example, although the ferry trip would be longer. Folegandros is in the Cyclades group of islands so you could look at flights/ferries to and from places like Mykonos and Naxos for example.